Cilento

In May of 2025, I went to Cilento to see the water buffalo and cheese with my dear friend Jennifer and her sweet daughter. We drove down from Rome to an agriturismo in gorgeous Roccadaspide. We had a beautiful meal at the house, including estate grown olives and their own house made wine. After having spent a few days wandering the bustling city of Rome, my heart and head craved the tranquility of the Cilento coast. I highly recommend staying in an agriturismo, for the cost and the experience. Plus, you’re supporting small scale agriculture!

Grotte di Castelcivita

The next day we went into Castelcivita, and toured the Grotto. Because it was May, the tourists were not in full force and we got the tour guide to ourselves! My friend and her daughter listened to him in Italian, but I borrowed headphones with a recorded tour in English so I could keep up.
So I have never seen anything like this in all my life! We walked for an hour through this cave and did not reach its depths. The photos do not capture the immense otherworldliness of the caves. I still can’t believe it was real!
Before we entered, I hoped that I would hear something about cheese aging in the cave, but no one discovered the cave until modern times. Even after discovery, it was quite dangerous. Cheese adventures would have to wait until our next day!

Bufala di Cilento

Before we returned to Rome, we went to a Mozzarella maker that one of my coworkers recommended. Tenuta Vannulo is clearly set up to handle visitors. There are tour guides, a leather shop with buffalo hide products, a restaurant, and even a museum. But we were there for the buffalo and the cheese! The one thing I had my heart set on for this entire trip to Italy was to taste same-day Mozzarella di Bufala! This cheese requires its own post, which I will link once I write it. 🙂
I was thrilled by the fresh, tangy, luxurious taste of the cheese. I wish we had had more time to stop and try all of the many buffalo cheese makers on our way back to from, via Sorrento. There are many different styles and shapes, not just our familiar mozzarella ball or burrata. Stay tuned for more cheese posts and classes!